Delille Cellars Métier Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Review

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Métier Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: What I think

Cabernet Sauvignon is an example of a grape whose classic style is defined by its French origin (Bordeaux). A key distinguishing factor between new world and old world Cabernet is that in the old world, it’s typically blended with something else (Merlot in France or Sangiovese in Italy), but in the new world, we tend to bottle it on its own.

Washington wines straddle old world and new world styles — they usually show balance in acidity and structure and are more subtly fruity than California. This Cabernet is a perfect example of how new world reds can be better than their old world counterparts without being, as the snobs like to say, “overripe.”

This wine is from a great AVA to know — Horse Heaven Hills in Columbia Valley. Long known as one of Washington’s best Cab regions, Horse Heaven Hills now produces quaffable Cabs at a variety of price points. Some mass-produced selections include H3, Columbia Crest, and 14 Hands, but boutique producers still abound like Quilceda Creek, Alexandria Nicole, and of course, Delille Cellars. Expect strongly concentrated flavors and intensity from Horse Heaven Hills wine.

Some of the grapes in this blend come from a new AVA. Designated in 2020, Candy Mountain is Washington’s newest AVA. Its sand and gravel soils resemble Bordeaux’s Left Bank. If you’re familiar with Red Mountain (another premium Cab region tucked into Washington’s Yakima Valley), you should note Candy Mountain is similar (same soil, same high winds).

Last updated: March 20, 2023